The highly transient initial shapes of 1D forced long waves are described in analogy with the swinging up of a mass on a spring forced by a simple harmonic force. That is, the complete solution is seen as the asymptotic, steady forced wave plus free waves which cancel it in the initial state of rest. The highly transient, complete wave form subsequently grows as the free waves separate from the forced wave. This approach gives a clear understanding of many of the characteristics of storm surge, tsunami and surfbeat
Using the records of free surface fluctuations at several locations during the 2011 Japan Tohoku tsu...
We investigate a hydrodynamic equation system which—with some approximation—is capable of describing...
A review of laboratory data sets on surf beat is presented, with a focus on the dissipation of long ...
The transient behaviour, i.e., the growth process of storm surges and other forced long waves is ana...
Water waves occurring in the ocean have a wide spectrum of wavelength and period, ranging from capil...
This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking...
devastating tsunami which followed, I have chosen the focus of my mini-course lectures at this year&...
Transient characteristics of wave generation in the wave channel can provide unique and important in...
We present a theory of very long waves propagating on the surface of water. The waves evolve slowly,...
This dissertation is mainly a review of some of the work done by various authors on the long wave (s...
Tsunamis are long waves that evolve substantially, through spatial and temporal spreading from their...
This paper concerns the description of large transient waves in shallow and intermediate water depth...
An expression for the increase in wave period during long distance propagation is derived from very ...
The various aspects of the propagation of long waves onto a shelf (i.e., reflection, .transmission a...
Generation process is an important part of understanding waves, especially tsunami. Large earthquake...
Using the records of free surface fluctuations at several locations during the 2011 Japan Tohoku tsu...
We investigate a hydrodynamic equation system which—with some approximation—is capable of describing...
A review of laboratory data sets on surf beat is presented, with a focus on the dissipation of long ...
The transient behaviour, i.e., the growth process of storm surges and other forced long waves is ana...
Water waves occurring in the ocean have a wide spectrum of wavelength and period, ranging from capil...
This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking...
devastating tsunami which followed, I have chosen the focus of my mini-course lectures at this year&...
Transient characteristics of wave generation in the wave channel can provide unique and important in...
We present a theory of very long waves propagating on the surface of water. The waves evolve slowly,...
This dissertation is mainly a review of some of the work done by various authors on the long wave (s...
Tsunamis are long waves that evolve substantially, through spatial and temporal spreading from their...
This paper concerns the description of large transient waves in shallow and intermediate water depth...
An expression for the increase in wave period during long distance propagation is derived from very ...
The various aspects of the propagation of long waves onto a shelf (i.e., reflection, .transmission a...
Generation process is an important part of understanding waves, especially tsunami. Large earthquake...
Using the records of free surface fluctuations at several locations during the 2011 Japan Tohoku tsu...
We investigate a hydrodynamic equation system which—with some approximation—is capable of describing...
A review of laboratory data sets on surf beat is presented, with a focus on the dissipation of long ...