Stretch to fit – made to fit†

It is widely recognised that elastic fibres (spandex and lycra) are used to impart stretch to fabrics. The amount the apparel stretches to fit depends on the elastic fibres’ characteristics and recovery properties, in providing pressure comfort and ease of movement. Made to fit, by comparison, is the construction of two-dimensional non-stretch pattern blocks using body darts to denote the 3D form. Building patternmaking theory can lead to a better understanding of the body to garment interaction, and the fit of apparel. This investigation commences with the identification of garment block construction methods for woven and jersey apparel, and corresponding garment fit expectations, comparing two published patternmaking methods. It proposes a system of adding bust cup grading into non-stretch garment blocks. The experimental results indicate that the proposed method would be easy to implement and could generate patterns with an improved bust girth fit. The purpose of this paper is to show that a new grading system would better serve the female population than the system currently in use. This system would also be more efficient as it would reduce the consumer time spent in fit identification as labelling would also indicate bust cup sizing.Institute of Textiles and Clothin