NATIONAL COSTUME IN THE REGION OF IMOTSKI AT THE BEGINNING OF THE 20TH CENTURY (Summary)

U članku se opisuje odijevanje imotskoga seljaštva i pojedinih građanskih društvenih slojeva u gradu Imotskom početkom 20. stoljeća. Analiziraju se dinarska obilježja odjeće, prati se razvoj i promjene na početku 20. st. uvjetovane gospodarskim faktorima, utjecajima građanske mode i mediteranskoga kulturnoga kruga. Navode se dokumentarni izvori, opisuju relevantne etnografske zbirke i rezultati recentnih istraživanja. Opisuje se proces rekonstrukcije nošnji u zagrebačkoj Posudionici i radionici narodnih nošnji za KUU "Novae" iz Runovića i franjevačkog samostana u Imotskom.National costume began to disappear from use in the region of Imotski at the beginning of the 20th century. Very little material evidence has remained. Research has been based on the analysis of Imotski clothing and jewellery preserved in the Ethnographic Museum in Split, the treasury of the Franciscan Monastery in Imotski, the museum collection of the Adult Education Center in Imotski, and the last few examples preserved in the field. This has been substantiated by data from historical documents, and literary, artistic, and ethnographic works. A similarity can be noted between the costume of region of Imotski and that of the other mountainous regions of Croatia, as well as neighboring Herzegovina. The earliest known sources confirm that the costume of the rural population of Imotski region, particularly in the earlier stratum, was of the Dinaric type. At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, clothing similar to the traditional costume was also worn by the inhabitants of the town of Imotski, who had moved from outlying villages into suburban and urban settlements, creating cultural values that simultaneously contained rural and urban elements. While the man\u27s clothing almost entirely corresponded to the Dinaric traditional clothing inventory, the woman\u27s clothing was dominated by urban fashion influences arriving from the Mediterranean. Individual fashion influences of the Mediterranean or urban origin gradually began to change the traditional rural costume at the beginning of the 20th century, and it would no longer belong exclusively to the Dinaric cultural circle. The folk costume would be retained in such a mixed form until the beginning of the World War II. The Folk Attire Manufacturing and Rental Office produced folk costumes for the Cultural and Artistic Society "Novac" from Runovići and the Franciscan Monastery in Imotski. The full wealth and variety of the folk costume has been shown through diverse variants from various chronological periods and various social layers. The costumes register the intermingling of urban and rural, Dinaric and Mediterranean, as well as European fashion influences that did not by-pass even folk costume. The folk costumes were presented at the Folklore Festival of Dalmatia in Metković and at the exhibition "Behind Seven Doors" in Zagreb