NUMERICAL COMPUTATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE DYNAMICS AND VELOCITY PROFILES USING A FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ MODEL

We present experimental and numerical analysis of nonlinear processes responsible for generating infragravity waves in the nearshore. We provide new experimental data on random wave propagation and associated velocity profiles in the shoaling and surf zones of a very mild slope beach. We analyze low frequency wave generation mechanisms and dynamics along the beach and examine in detail the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq- type model SERR1D (Cienfuegos et al., 2010) to reproduce the complex dynamics of high frequency wave propagation and energy transfer mechanisms that enhance infragravity wave generation in the laboratory