Textiles Recorded: Fashion Reconstructed Through Aztec Codices

The historical documentation of the use of textiles during the Aztec empire as tribute offerings and sumptuary laws indicates the elevated role of textiles at the time. Yet, further research is warranted on the artistry of these textiles. This is difficult because the climate of central Mexico is not conducive to preserving fiber materials; fortunately, the rich manuscripts of this region preserve many images of textiles created during the Aztec empire. Early colonial manuscripts, many of which are copies of pre-conquest manuscripts no longer extant, preserve images of textiles from the pre-conquest period. These manuscripts provide invaluable information regarding the regional variations, creation technologies and costume elements for textiles. This paper explores images and texts of two groups of textiles: textiles with diagonal bifurcations, and jaguar related textiles found in the Codex Mendoza, the Matrícula de Tributos, the Codex Magliabechiano and the Florentine Codex. These textile groups provide insights into the naming practices, materials and status given to textiles in central Mexico at the time of the Aztec Empire