A wave component grows exponentially in time owing to some feedback interaction with the mean wind above the sea. Initially, this growth is opposed primarily by wave breaking. By assuming that the rate of loss of energy at a given wave frequency is proportional to the mean square slope of waves at lower frequencies, an equation is derived for the temporal behaviour of a wave. One prediction of this equation is that a growing wave overshoots its final equilibrium energy level: a phenomenon observed to occur in sea waves. 1
The present wave transformation models for random waves make use of an explicit formulation of the e...
It is well known (see Divoky et al., 1970, for a review) that on gentle slopes (slope S < 1:30, say)...
LaTex file, 16 pages, 4 figuresIn the limit of small values of the aspect ratio parameter (or wave s...
The breaking of deep-water surface water waves represents one of the most interesting and challengin...
A single nonlinear internal wave tracked more than 100 wavelengths across Oregon\u27s continental sh...
In the concept of full development, the sea wave spectrum is regarded as a nearly stationary solutio...
A curious feature of the ordinary linear theory of irregular waves is that the particle trajectories...
In this set of lectures I would like to give a brief overview of the state-of-the-art of ocean wave ...
Huang (2006) suggested that wave breaking in the coastal region is a major energy source for the oce...
Abstract. The Hasselmann kinetic equation [1] provides a statistical description of waves ensemble. ...
We study attenuation of free waves in the homogeneous ocean. Using the Cauchy–Riemann relations and ...
International audienceAssuming resonant nonlinear wave interactions to be the dominant physical mech...
A single nonlinear internal wave tracked more than 100 wavelengths across Oregon’s continental shelf...
Detailed studies have been carried out for fetch and duration limited wave growth and fully develope...
This thesis presents a 3D laboratory study of directional deep-water wave groups; addressing wave br...
The present wave transformation models for random waves make use of an explicit formulation of the e...
It is well known (see Divoky et al., 1970, for a review) that on gentle slopes (slope S < 1:30, say)...
LaTex file, 16 pages, 4 figuresIn the limit of small values of the aspect ratio parameter (or wave s...
The breaking of deep-water surface water waves represents one of the most interesting and challengin...
A single nonlinear internal wave tracked more than 100 wavelengths across Oregon\u27s continental sh...
In the concept of full development, the sea wave spectrum is regarded as a nearly stationary solutio...
A curious feature of the ordinary linear theory of irregular waves is that the particle trajectories...
In this set of lectures I would like to give a brief overview of the state-of-the-art of ocean wave ...
Huang (2006) suggested that wave breaking in the coastal region is a major energy source for the oce...
Abstract. The Hasselmann kinetic equation [1] provides a statistical description of waves ensemble. ...
We study attenuation of free waves in the homogeneous ocean. Using the Cauchy–Riemann relations and ...
International audienceAssuming resonant nonlinear wave interactions to be the dominant physical mech...
A single nonlinear internal wave tracked more than 100 wavelengths across Oregon’s continental shelf...
Detailed studies have been carried out for fetch and duration limited wave growth and fully develope...
This thesis presents a 3D laboratory study of directional deep-water wave groups; addressing wave br...
The present wave transformation models for random waves make use of an explicit formulation of the e...
It is well known (see Divoky et al., 1970, for a review) that on gentle slopes (slope S < 1:30, say)...
LaTex file, 16 pages, 4 figuresIn the limit of small values of the aspect ratio parameter (or wave s...