Add to ORKGAbstract: In this paper, a systematic, overall view of theories for periodic waves of permanent form, such as Stokes and cnoidal waves, is described first with their validity ranges. To deal with random waves, a method for estimating directional spectra is given. Then, various wave equations are introduced according to the assumptions included in their derivations. The mild-slope equation is derived for combined refraction and diffraction of linear periodic waves. Various parabolic approximations and time-dependent forms are proposed to include randomness and nonlinearity of waves as well as to simplify numerical calculation. Boussinesq equations are the equations developed for calculating nonlinear wave transformations in shallow water. No...
The focus of this paper is to address a new approach for the Fourier analysis of deep-water wave tra...
Nonlinear modulational instability of wavepackets is one of the mechanisms responsible for the forma...
In recent years, considerable research effort has been devoted to improving the accuracy of the asse...
This study is to propose a wave model with both wave dispersivity and nonlinearity for the wave fiel...
As surface waves propagate from deep water toward shallow coastal areas, their ensuing transformatio...
Much effort has been devoted to the numerical modeling of nonlinear wave propagation in shallow wate...
There are two types of forcing that excite long-period oscillations in a harbor. The first is the ve...
Ocean waves entering the near-shore zone undergo nonlinear and dispersive processes. This paper revi...
We describe the numerical implementation of a phase-resolving, nonlinear spectral model for shoaling...
The Stokes wave is generalized to progressive waves in deep water which are periodic in two orthogon...
A numerical model for long-term simulation of gravity suface waves is described. The model is design...
Taking into account the fluctuations of the free surface for points in the vicinity of the still wat...
Abstract: We describe the numerical implementation of a phase-resolving, nonlinear spectral model fo...
As ocean surface waves radiate into shallow coastal areas and onto beaches, their lengths shorten, w...
Abstract: Objective of this contribution is to show how to implement the Mild Slope Equations with C...
The focus of this paper is to address a new approach for the Fourier analysis of deep-water wave tra...
Nonlinear modulational instability of wavepackets is one of the mechanisms responsible for the forma...
In recent years, considerable research effort has been devoted to improving the accuracy of the asse...
This study is to propose a wave model with both wave dispersivity and nonlinearity for the wave fiel...
As surface waves propagate from deep water toward shallow coastal areas, their ensuing transformatio...
Much effort has been devoted to the numerical modeling of nonlinear wave propagation in shallow wate...
There are two types of forcing that excite long-period oscillations in a harbor. The first is the ve...
Ocean waves entering the near-shore zone undergo nonlinear and dispersive processes. This paper revi...
We describe the numerical implementation of a phase-resolving, nonlinear spectral model for shoaling...
The Stokes wave is generalized to progressive waves in deep water which are periodic in two orthogon...
A numerical model for long-term simulation of gravity suface waves is described. The model is design...
Taking into account the fluctuations of the free surface for points in the vicinity of the still wat...
Abstract: We describe the numerical implementation of a phase-resolving, nonlinear spectral model fo...
As ocean surface waves radiate into shallow coastal areas and onto beaches, their lengths shorten, w...
Abstract: Objective of this contribution is to show how to implement the Mild Slope Equations with C...
The focus of this paper is to address a new approach for the Fourier analysis of deep-water wave tra...
Nonlinear modulational instability of wavepackets is one of the mechanisms responsible for the forma...
In recent years, considerable research effort has been devoted to improving the accuracy of the asse...