Title: COASTAL PROCESSES

This course is designed to introduce students to the study of the “physical ” processes that occur in the coastal environment. Emphasis is placed on the marine forces that control sediment movement and morphology changes. These forces, acting on a coastal ocean environment are waves and currents with the latter being generated by waves, winds and/or tides. Waves provide the forcing for sediment entrainment while currents are the sediment transporters. Topics to be covered include: tides; wave theory; wave and current measurements, wave hindcasting and forecasting; sediment transport; beaches and bars; sediment budget. The course is suitable for upper level undergraduate students and graduate students. Although a quantitative course in nature; it does not require more than basic numerical abilities. Different requirements and expectations apply to graduates and undergraduate students. II. Goals and Learning Outcome