Experimental and numerical investigation of wave impact on a vertical wall

Breaking waves is a topic of hydrodynamic wave theory for which our insight is still very limited. Qualitative description and classification are found in, for instance, Cokelet (1977); Peregrine (1983) and formation of plungers have been simulated since 1976 (Longuet-Higgins & Cokelet (1976)), but a number of aspects and applications for breaking waves still await proper analysis. In mid ocean breaking waves are important for momentum transfer from wind to ocean currents as well as mixing of the surface layers. From an engineering point of view plunging breakers and extremely steep waves may present extreme loads on structures and vessels, see Peregrine (2003) In Jensen et al. (2003) the dynamics of incident solitary waves on the verge of onshore plunging, on a 10.54 ◦ slope, were investigated with the PIV technique. Among other things, acceleration distributions leading to reversal of breaking in overhanging waves were reported. In Jensen et al. (2005) another set of experiments with runup of solitary waves on a 7.18 ◦ slope was studied. The velocity and acceleration distribution in massive onshore plungers are measured with PIV and computed by a VOF technique. This investigation aimed at recognition of cases leading to extreme runup and onshor