Foulk et al ID #33 2008 International Conference on Flax and Other Bast Plants (ISBN #978-0-9809664-0-4) 190 Miniature Spinning Enzyme-Retted Flax Fibers

Fibers from flax (Linum usitatissimum L.) are stiff and strong and can be blended with other short staple fibers, such as cotton (Gossypium barbadense L. or Gossypium hirsutum L.), processed into a yarn and then manufactured into a fabric. Manufacturing yarns with natural flax fibers has traditionally been constructed using dew- or water-retted fibers. Enzyme-retting is a new, experimental method that decomposes the pectinaceous and matrix substances to separate cellulose fibers from shives using pectinase-rich enzymes and chelators. Modifications of the natural hydrophilic fibers cause changes in the fiber and yarn strength depending upon the enzyme treatment. Spinning tests were used to determine how well fibers were assembled to form yarn and provided an indirect measurement of fiber properties. Fibers were evaluated for physical properties while yarns created with flax and cotton fibers were tested for strength and evenness. Properties of yarns vary considerably but these properties and spinning efficiency remain the top indicators to determine the best enzyme formulation for yarn production. The purpose of this study was to evaluate miniature spinning using 50/50 blends of cotton and enzyme-retted flax since enzyme modifications and chelators impact the fiber and yar